I'm looking for the color codes to be able to install a 7 wire trailer connector to my trailer, there is a wire bundle coming out from the front of my trailer.
Is it colored the same as modern trailers, or will I need to use a hot lead and see what lights up?
The attachment is dated 1964 which is the earliest Ive been able toOriginally Posted by jeeper50
find...it is quite possible no significant changes were made in those
5 years.
This page is quite possibly the most comprehensive collection of trailer
electrical components I have ever seen in one place. Every different type
and configuration including every adapter known to man and testers.
At the bottom are current standards for comparative purposes.
C.R. Brophy Machine Works, Inc. -- Electrical Connectors, Adapters & Converters
Thanks It will be a good place to start. I'm sure it will have been "modified" sometime in it's life.
Hello Folks, This is a bit off topic and won't help anyone, but I've always found it strange that the centre pin on a 7 conductor trailer plug is not the ground connection. (I can't remember off the top of my head what it actually is). It's the largest pin and capable of handling the most current, so why wouldn't it be the ground? Anyway, I'm at a loss to explain it. I'm sure the 7 conductor connector evolved from something else and that it's a compromise of engineering rather than an intriniscally sound design. And it still works, so why change it? Something like the North American wiring standard that introduced a ground wire into the already safe two wire system in use since before 1900. So now we have a bare copper wire connected at the panel to the same place as the white neutral wire. This bare copper wire is adjacent to the hot (black) wire which is insulated. Now smash those wires together with a wire staple and the single layer of insulation is compromised and has caused some fires. At least if we were going to have ground wires in our house and trailer wiring it should be insulated like the Europeans do. It would have saved a lot of copper if house wiring (extend that to trailers too) were still two-wire, but with 3 prong plugs. In my world of common sense, the neutral at the plug should be connected to the ground connection. Yes, the ground for the appliance which would have a separate ground wire, would be connected to the white wire since the ground and neutral would be connected internally. This would save in two ways: The wiring could never be connected backwards, ie the black would always be connected to the gold screw, otherwise the breaker would blow. As it is now, receptacles can be wired backwards and no one is the wiser, which makes appliances with two prong plugs that have the wide and narrow spades dangerous, since they rely on the correct placement of the hot and neutral on the receptacle to be safe. Ever been to a trailer park or someone's home and got a shock from the metal side of the trailer? That's why, or the extension cord was wired backwards. The other advantage of dispensing with the ground wire on the supply side to the receptacle is that is saves wire. The neutral will already perform this function. I know, off topic a bit, but I've taken more than a few lifters off trailers while standing in my bare feet! I think the present standard for North American wiring was decided by a committee (of wire suppilers) rather than an electrician. I'm not knocking GFIs, they work. Cheers, Derf
Hello Derf, I've often wondered why the center pin was not the neutral, as logic would have made it so, or at least my logic.
As far as the amount of power transfer goes, the wire gauge dictates the load and the flat blades are capable of handling that load and more, so it's safe...as far as I know anyway.
For several years now in home wiring the ground and neutral are no longer bonded together in the service box. So I guess in a way you got your wish.
Code now requires all 220v receptacles for dryers, ranges, ovens etc, to have 4 wires, 2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground.
Don't ask me how or why it works to save your life, it's been explained to me countless times and still there is a piece of the puzzle missing for me. I just make sure it's correct to CMA.
Yes receptacles can be mistakenly wired neutral hot that's a bad thing, the inspector will go to each receptacle and test each one to make sure it's correct. If any were wired incorrectly, you'll have to make another appointment and try again.
Before I plug in the Airstream I try and remember to test the outlet as well with one of those little testers with the three lights. Interesting thing, our 75 has a little glass light about the size of a dime over the water heater that will light up if the receptacle is miswired, never thought it worked, never lit up until a year ago. Freaked me out when I saw the glow, but I'm glad to know it works.
Jody (did you ever grab an electric fence) Dietz
JDietz, The way you describe a 220V connection is the only way I've ever seen it in Canada. I really like that polarity checker idea that you had on your old airstream. When I do the rebuild on my 65 Caravel, I will incorporate that. Thank-you. By the way, I've been shocked many times by electric fences. Do a google search for the 'Blitzen' electric fence controller. My late father and mother made a few thousand in their basement years ago. It was the only electric fence controller that was CSA (ie not lethal) approved and still would handle ten miles of fence. Some of the stuff out of New Zealand at the time was lethal. Take care, Derf Summerfreeze
Hello Derf, This may be easier than an install.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/50542-Receptacle-Tester-Improper-Indicator/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1281696028&sr=8-1"]Amazon.com: GE 50542 Receptacle Tester, 3-Wire Light Improper Wiring Indicator: Home Improvement[/ame]
Jody (on my way. it's rally day) Dietz
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